Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Fernarly's Eight Great Ski Hills of North America

(too hard to decide an order, so they're alphabetical)

Alpental, Washington
Alpental is a small-but-steep hill just 52 miles from Seattle. It has easy-and-excellent backcountry access, but even without that it is just a very special place. The double chair to the summit is a classic Washington State experience. The snow seems to fall deeper here and the powder lines seem to last longer, even when it is crowded. I’ve had so many great powder days here, including March 28, 2009 – it was deep, it was not wet at all, and I blissed out on powder lines all freaking day. Seattle is one lucky city.

Brundage, Idaho
Brundage, near McCall, is often considered to have the best snow in Idaho. I just love making turns here. For experts, there are acres of untracked powder fields and the steeps out in Hidden Valley. The place never gets too crowded, so Brundage’s powder can last for days. Last time I was here I seemed to ride runs all day with nobody on ‘em except for my pal Mr. Mullet and me.

Lost Trail Powder Mountain, Montana
Lost Trail is only open Thursday through Sunday and has no village and no slopeside lodging. Lost Trail has some of the most amazing terrain, great snow, cheap lift tickets, and empty slopes of any hill I’ve experienced. It also has a lot of rocks to tear up your board and a long drive to civilization. I love it regardless.

Revelstoke Mountain Resort, British Columbia
The lifts serve up 5,620 vertical feet. What more do you need? It snows a lot: 40+ feet per season; and the 3,031 acres served by three lifts provide a fantastic big mountain experience. Powder lines all over the place provide me the big bliss, and they have a few great groomers too. Nelson Lodge at the base of the gondola is the most stylin' place I've ever stayed. There's yumful food all over the mountain and in the cool town of Revelstoke itself which is just 3.8 miles away. The whole week we were there in January 2010, the snow report concluded with, "Welcome to another Revy powder day!"

Snowbasin, Utah
Snowbasin has simply amazing snow and has provided me with one of the best lift-serviced powder days of my life. It was a Sunday, with 8” of fresh according to the 6 AM snow report, but then it kept snowing and the reality was 12” and more. Everywhere. All day. I was riding straight up to the lift and getting on, riding quads by myself. Dumbfounding. And blissful.

Sun Peaks, British Columbia
Sun Peaks is a big, rollicking, 3,678 acres of snow riding goodness. I went there for a week one February with great conditions (including a couple nice powder days) and I never waited in a lift line. Fast groomers, fluffy snow, fascinating topography (ride a 360 degree all-day loop around the village), and superb and varied terrain make for endless fun. The best on-mountain restaurant around provides delicious fuel for your day; and the ski-in/ski-out village has great lodging, eating, and drinking. Everything you need for the Snow Life.

Whitefish Mountain Resort, Montana
Whitefish (formerly Big Mountain) often feels like lift serviced backcountry. There are so many great lines through the trees on this hill that it is ridiculous. It gets great snow and it never gets very crowded at all. By my experience over the last decade plus, it consistentently has better conditions than its Canadian cousin just slightly north, Fernie, BC, which can be an icy washout of bare spots, while Whitefish is still fully covered and totally shreddable. The town of Whitefish is just eight miles away and maintains a friendly-but-ragged northwest Montana vibe that just plain rules.

Whitewater, British Columbia
Whitewater is a little hill with two main double chairs, yet it gets tons of super high quality snow (480" average annually) and has super good terrain. Open spaces, rock drops, trees, steeps – you name it, Whitewater has it, and delicious mountain food too. 12 miles away, the great Kootenay town of Nelson provides good lodging options, great food, and a fun and charming vibe.


2 comments:

  1. Good list that I agree 100 percent with. I'd offer up the following places for you to visit. I think you'll find them to your liking:

    Grand Targhee. Jackson is steeper, but Targhee is snowier and far less crowded. Had my best in-bounds day ever there in '03; foot of new to start, blowin' and snowin' all day, and the mountain to myself. Low-key vibe, and just plain fun. I'd bum for a season there in a heartbeat.

    Wolf Creek. Little place in SW CO that gets pounded every year, but you've skied there so you know that. No slopeside anything, but no skiers on the slopes either, and those that are are mostly texans who stick to the groomers. a morning on the Alberta Peak lift then a hike or two to the peak in the afternoon will leave you with a week-long perma-grin.

    Silverton. Same deal as above, but much steeper, and longer runs. Only skied it twice (on consecutive days), but maybe again next year.

    Steamboat. Get Utah quality snow on the hill and Colorado quality beer at the base. Shadows/Closets is still my favorite inbounds run anywhere. Virtually no traffic either, save for the usual MLK and Pres Day weekend rushes. Late January will consistenly get you the best conditions there.

    Vail. Yeah , there are a lot of negative (most notably, it's tough to ski with only one arm and leg after buying a ticket, and the crowds can blow), but with a little local knowledge it can easily be worked into an outstanding day every day. Next time you see cheap tix out to Denver, Hop out and I'll give you a tour.

    Ream

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  2. Thank you Ream! What's it been? 4.8 years? I say:

    I 100% agree about Vail. So much to hate, yet it can be SO GOOD. I finally made it last season on Epic Pass and Holiday Inn points, with medium-low expectations, but was treated to crazily laxed vibe easy access superb-o powder from Heaven (on some parts of the mountain). I'll be back this year in late January. I am stupidly stoked on Vail. I add Vail to my List as Naughty #9.

    Grand Targhee, Wolf Creek, and Silverton: I agree conceptually but have hit it poorly in term of snow conditions at these three (+ had a jerk guide at Silverton), so I don't feel love. Yet.

    Steamboat I've still not ridden! It's on my list though, and they now have a direct flight from Seattle. Maybe we can meet up there sometime? or just go ride Vail - I'd still like that tour!

    Fernarly

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